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Opening your saved pattern.

Your measurements

Chest

samplein

All the way round at the fullest part, over a thin top.

Body length

samplein

From the top of the shoulder to where the hem should sit.

Shoulder width

samplein

Across the back, from one shoulder point to the other.

Arm length

samplein

From the shoulder point to the wrist bone, arm straight.

Upper arm

samplein

All the way round the widest part.

Wrist

samplein

All the way round, at the wrist bone.

Head

samplein

All the way round the widest part, over the ears. Used to check the neck goes on.

Numbers tagged sample are an invented body. Replace them with yours.

Easechest 8 in, upper arm 2 in, cuff 2 in (sample)

Chest ease

samplein

How much bigger than your chest the sweater should be.

Upper arm ease

samplein

Added to the upper arm for the sleeve top.

Cuff ease

samplein

Added to the wrist for the cuff. The cuff must pass over your hand.

Your swatch, after blocking

Stitch

Changing the stitch sets the turning chain to the usual choice for it.

The turning chain counts as a stitch

Count your swatch stitches the same way.

Stitches

sample

Over a width of

samplein

Rows

sample

Over a height of

samplein

Stitch multiple

For a stitch pattern worked over a repeat: the multiple of stitches in a row, not of the foundation chain. Leave 1 for plain stitches.

Plus

Extra stitches on top of the multiple, fewer than the multiple.

Shape

Neck

Boat neckSquare front neck

Front neck depth

samplein

How far the front neck drops below the shoulder line. Deeper makes the opening narrower.

Sleeves

TaperedStraight

Yarn estimateabout 810 yd (sample)

Unravel your whole swatch and measure the yarn, or weigh it and work it out from the ball band: swatch weight divided by ball weight, times the yarn in one ball. Leave the yarn at 0 to skip the estimate.

Whole swatch width

samplein

Whole swatch height

samplein

Yarn the swatch used

sampleyd

Yarn in one ball

sampleyd

Saved in this browserMy sweater

Name of this pattern

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Chest 46.3 in, 81 by 63

See the pattern

sample Finished chest 46.3 in, length 22.9 in, 81 sts by 63 rows a panel.

Check: This is the sample pattern, worked from an invented body and swatch. Type your own measurements and swatch; the fields marked sample are not yours yet.

Why these numbers

Your gauge

14 sts over 4 in is 3.5 sts per in.
11 rows over 4 in is 2.75 rows per in.

Body: 81 sts and 63 rows

Chest 38 in plus ease 8 in is 46 in. Half of that, for one panel, is 23 in.
23 in times 3.5 sts per in is 80.5 sts; the nearest whole stitch is 81.
81 sts make a panel 23.14 in wide, so the finished chest is 46.29 in.
Length 23 in times 2.75 rows per in is 63.25 rows; the nearest whole row is 63, which is 22.91 in.

Sleeve top: 49 sts, armhole 19 rows

Upper arm 12 in plus sleeve ease 2 in is 14 in, which is 49 sts; the nearest whole stitch is 49, or 14 in.
The sleeve top is sewn to the front and the back, so the armhole is half of it: 7 in, which is 19 rows (6.91 in).

Sleeve length: 53 rows

Each panel is 23.14 in wide and your shoulders are 15.5 in, so the body reaches 3.82 in past each shoulder point.
Arm length 23 in minus 3.82 in is 19.18 in, which is 52.74 rows; the nearest whole row is 53, or 19.27 in.

Sleeve taper: 49 to 29 sts

Wrist 6.5 in plus cuff ease 2 in is 8.5 in, which is 29.75 sts. The cuff must differ from the top by an even number, because a decrease row takes one stitch off each edge, so the cuff is 29 sts (8.29 in).
49 minus 29 is 20 sts, which is 10 decrease rows.
After row 1 there are 52 rows for 10 decrease rows, a share of 5.2 rows each. Each decrease row sits in the middle of its share: the kth is on row 1 plus 52 times (2k minus 1) divided by 20, rounded with an exact half up. The rows are 4, 9, 14, 19, 24, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, so there are 8 gaps of 5 rows and 1 gap of 6 rows, mixed along the sleeve. That leaves 2 even rows before the first decrease and 3 after the last, at the cuff.
The sleeve edge never strays more than one stitch from a straight line drawn from the top to the cuff.

Neck: 31 sts, shoulders 25 sts each

The neck edge has to pass over a head of 22 in. It aims at the head plus 1.97 in (5 cm), which is 23.97 in. The back gives the width, and the front gives the width plus two sides of 2.91 in (8 rows), so the width is half of 23.97 in minus 2.91 in: 9.08 in.
9.08 in times 3.5 sts per in is 31.76 sts. The neck count has the same odd or even as the panel's 81, so both shoulders get the same whole count: 31 sts for the neck and 25 sts for each shoulder.
The finished neck edge is 23.5 in all round.
The opening is 8.9 in wide and your shoulders are 15.5 in, which leaves 3.3 in of shoulder each side to hold the sweater up. It needs at least 0.8 in, and 1.6 in or more stays on well.

Yokewright

Drop-shoulder pullover, made to measure

My sweater Pattern code 2-1UH4-AMS US terms Inches

Finished measurements

Worked back from the whole stitch and row counts below, so these are what you will get. Beside each is the size you aimed at.

Chest: 46.3 inaimed at 46 in, 0.3 in over
Length: 22.9 inaimed at 23 in, 0.1 in under
Sleeve top (upper arm): 14 inaimed at 14 in, on target
Cuff: 8.3 inaimed at 8.5 in, 0.2 in under
Sleeve length: 19.3 inaimed at 19.2 in, 0.1 in over
Neck width: 8.9 inaimed at 9.1 in, 0.2 in under
Front neck depth: 2.9 inaimed at 3 in, 0.1 in under
Armhole depth: 6.9 in

Check before you start

This is the sample pattern, worked from an invented body and swatch. Type your own measurements and swatch; the fields marked sample are not yours yet.

Schematic

Front and back, make 2; the front neck is 2.9 in deep. Finished chest 46.3 in.

Sleeve, make 2, worked from the top edge down to the cuff.

Gauge and materials

Gauge: 14 hdc and 11 rows to 4 in wide by 4 in tall, in half double crochet, after blocking.

Yarn: about 810 yd, or 4 balls of the yarn you swatched with. This is an estimate from your swatch: the fabric area of all four pieces divided by the area of your swatch, times the yarn your swatch used, plus 10 percent for seams and ends, rounded up to the next 10 yd. Buy one extra ball.
Hook: the hook you made your swatch with.
4 stitch markers and a tapestry needle.

Notes

The turning chain (ch 2) does not count as a stitch.
The number in brackets is the number of stitches at the end of that row.
Plain rows look much the same on both faces. Choose one face of each piece as the right side and mark it with a stitch marker; seam with those faces together as the making up says.
US crochet terms throughout.

Abbreviations

ch: chain
hdc: half double crochet
hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 together: yarn over, insert the hook in the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, insert the hook in the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops
sl st: slip stitch
sk: skip
st, sts: stitch, stitches

Back

Foundation: Ch 83.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (81 sts)
Rows 2 to 63: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across. (81 sts)
Fasten off.
Armhole markers: Place a marker in each side edge at the end of row 44, which is 19 rows (6.9 in) below the top edge.

Front

Foundation: Ch 83.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (81 sts)
Rows 2 to 55: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across. (81 sts)
The front neck starts here. The centre 31 sts are left unworked, and each shoulder of 25 sts is worked on its own for 8 rows (2.9 in).
First shoulder
Row 56: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each of the first 25 sts, leaving the rest of the row unworked. (25 sts)
Rows 57 to 63: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across. (25 sts)
Fasten off.
Second shoulder
Row 56: With the same side facing as for the first shoulder, sk the next 31 unworked sts of row 55 after the first shoulder, join the yarn with a sl st in the next st, ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in the same st and in each remaining st. (25 sts)
Rows 57 to 63: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across. (25 sts)
Fasten off.
Armhole markers: Place the armhole markers as for the back, at the end of row 44.

Sleeves (make 2)

Each sleeve is worked from the top edge down to the cuff, from 49 sts to 29 sts over 53 rows. One st comes off each edge on every decrease row.
Foundation: Ch 51.
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (49 sts)
Even row: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc in each st across.
Decrease row: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc2tog over the first 2 sts, hdc in each st until 2 sts remain, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. This takes 2 sts off the row.
Rows 2 to 3: Work 2 even rows. (49 sts)
Rows 4 to 50: Work a decrease row on rows 4, 9, 14, 19, 24, 30, 35, 40, 45 and 50, and an even row on each row in between. The decrease rows are 5 or 6 rows apart, mixed so the sleeve edge follows a straight line from the top to the cuff. (29 sts)
Rows 51 to 53: Work 3 even rows for the cuff. (29 sts)
Fasten off.

Making up

Block: Block every piece to the finished measurements on the schematic and let it dry.
Shoulders: Lay the front on the back, right sides together. Seam the top of each front shoulder to the outer 25 sts of the back's top edge. The centre 31 sts of the back stay open for the neck.
Sleeves: Open the body flat, right side up. Fold a sleeve's top edge in half to find its centre and pin the centre to the shoulder seam. Pin the two ends of the top edge to the armhole markers on the front and back, then sew the 49 sts of the top edge to the 38 row ends between the markers (19 on the front and 19 on the back). If the sleeve top and the armhole differ a little, ease the sleeve top in evenly to fit. Repeat for the second sleeve.
Side seams: Fold the sweater at the shoulders, right sides together. Sew each sleeve seam from the cuff to the underarm, then each side seam from the underarm to the hem (44 rows).
Finish: Weave in all ends and turn the sweater right side out.
Edges: No edging is written: the neck, hem and cuffs are left as worked. If you add an edging, it adds a little to each measurement above.

Sleeve row by row

Show all 53 rows, with a box to tick for each

Tick each row as you finish it. Stitches are counted at the end of the row.

Row	Work	Sts
1	Row 1	49
2	Even	49
3	Even	49
4	Decrease	47
5	Even	47
6	Even	47
7	Even	47
8	Even	47
9	Decrease	45
10	Even	45
11	Even	45
12	Even	45
13	Even	45
14	Decrease	43
15	Even	43
16	Even	43
17	Even	43
18	Even	43
19	Decrease	41
20	Even	41
21	Even	41
22	Even	41
23	Even	41
24	Decrease	39
25	Even	39
26	Even	39
27	Even	39
28	Even	39
29	Even	39
30	Decrease	37
31	Even	37
32	Even	37
33	Even	37
34	Even	37
35	Decrease	35
36	Even	35
37	Even	35
38	Even	35
39	Even	35
40	Decrease	33
41	Even	33
42	Even	33
43	Even	33
44	Even	33
45	Decrease	31
46	Even	31
47	Even	31
48	Even	31
49	Even	31
50	Decrease	29
51	Even	29
52	Even	29
53	Even	29

How the numbers are made

No AI, just arithmetic you can check.

Your swatch sets the gauge. Stitches and rows per inch or centimetre, straight from the swatch you blocked, in the stitch you will use.
Every count is a whole number. Each piece starts with the nearest count that fits your stitch multiple, and every length is a whole number of rows.
The finished sizes are worked back. What you see is what those counts make, not the number you asked for, so a rounding is never hidden.

Every rule, with a worked example, is on how the maths works. Answers on measuring and swatching are in the FAQ. Yokewright makes one construction today, the flat-panel drop-shoulder pullover; more constructions are planned. It suits adult and teen bodies. A small child's head is large for their shoulders, so the page usually refuses a neck for them rather than write one that will not stay on; the FAQ has the numbers.

A crochet sweater pattern made to your measurements

Finished measurements

Check before you start

Schematic

Gauge and materials

Notes

Abbreviations

Back

Front

First shoulder

Second shoulder

Sleeves (make 2)

Making up

Sleeve row by row

How the numbers are made